The Lincoln Birthday Cake

Since my recent diatribe against the offensive mediocrity of birthday sheet cakes, my inbox has been inundated with suggestions, encouragement, support and opposition (apparently there are representatives of the Duncan Hines persuasion out there who feel I was out of bounds). In answer to this outpouring (outcry?) of interest, I would like to report on the results of my epicurean time travel (and also assure the descendents of Betty Crocker and their legal representatives that I meant no disrespect to the memory of their fine matriarch; indeed it was in the spirit of her memory that I was inspired to do just what she dedicated her life to: celebrate a loved one through quality baked goods).

You'll recall that I had resolved to use an old-time recipe that I had uncovered from the Mary Todd Lincoln archive for her own white cake. It was, like most recipes from the 1800's, laden with a shocking amount of butter and sugar, as well as containing archaic cooking instructions (uh, ..."CREAM TOGETHER the butter and sugar..."? huh?). Nevertheless, in the interest of historical accuracy (and birthday immediacy) I trudged onward and ended up making a lovely, if crazy-sweet, coffee style cake. It has a nice almond flavor and fluffy consistency. I did not, however, have a "tube pan," as the recipe specifies, so I think I ended up putting too much batter into too little pan. The loaf expanded alarmingly upwards, but luckily did not overflow. This resulted in some uneven baking: the bottom was done well before the top, so I had to keep it in the oven at a low temperature for about twice as long as what was called for. The consequence seemed to be only that I spent more time on this project than I had originally anticipated, but I guess I can just write that off to birthday love.

"Mary's white cake is the best I've ever eaten."

-Abraham Lincoln

Betty Crocker Is No Mary Todd Lincoln

I attended a family BBQ this afternoon in honor of my dear husband's impending 32nd birthday, and, like so many other birthday parties in so many other places today and through the ages, there was a sheet cake baked for the occassion. Everyone gathers around these mundane requirements, candles are lit, an awkward song is sung awkwardly (especially when the honoree is a fully grown 32 year old man), and then everyone gets a piece (trust me, a host is acutely annoyed if you try to refuse--afterall: who wants leftover sheet cake hanging around their house?). I think we can all agree that these cakes, made from adding an egg and some water to the contents of a little box and then slathering with waxy-tasting icing, are pretty disappointing. I mean, why not bake a real cake, from a real recipe, using real ingredients? Its not really that hard or time consuming, comparatively. I say if you're going to go to the trouble of gathering around it, lighting it ablaze and singing over it, all in honor of a so-called loved one, you should put some effort into it: make it something notable!

In that spirit, and the spirit of my current Mary Todd Lincoln obsession, I am posting the following recipe from MTL's actual home cook book: a recipe she actually used, for a cake that Abraham Lincoln regularly ate! My husband's actual birthday is this Wednesday, and I am planning on trying it out for the occassion: a real cake for a real man! just like the 16th president of the United States used to eat! W-O-W!

Mary Todd Lincoln's White Cake

• 1 cup butter
• 2 cups sugar
• 3 cups flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 cup milk
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• 1 teaspoon almond extract
• 1 cup chopped blanched almonds
• 6 egg whites
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Cream butter & sugar until light and fluffy.Sift together flour and baking powder; remove 2 tablespoons & set aside. Add sifted ingredients, alternating with milk, to creamed mixture. Stir in vanilla and almond extract. Combine almonds w/reserved flour & add to batter.

Beat egg whites until stiff; add salt. Fold into batter. Pour into greased and floured tube pan. Bake at 375 degrees until a cake tester comes out clean, about 55 minutes. Cool 5 to 10 minutes; remove from pan & finish cooling on rack.

Happy birthday!